I first saw Easy Rider about 35 years ago — I gotta say, it had an impact on my life. At least, it changed the direction of my life. Not because of a social statement, or because I wanted to be a a hippie, or anything like that. It changed the trajectory of my life because I wanted to see things. The idea that you could ride around the country on a motorcycle, looking for adventure and whatever came my way just seemed like something I wanted; err, I *Had* to do.
I was living in Long Beach California at the time. The very next day, I bought my first Street bike, and I started riding the hell out of it.
Around January of this year, I got an email from Author Steven Bingen asking me if I wanted to be involved in a book he was writing about Easy Rider. I said yes.
The book came out November 1st. Steven is a stand up guy, and a really good author. I like his style: he’s a natural born historian and has written several books about the studio system in Hollywood and just seems to know his shit. We went back and forth a bit, but he seemed like a guy I could trust to give my info to.
Anyway, my name is on a book. The first printing is out on Hardcover on Amazon right now. I’m kind of fired up about it.
It’s a Sunday, and up at 4 AM. Enjoying the desert morning and having a little coffee. I’m fired up.
It’ll be a total of 17 people; mostly from the UK and Germany, one from Denmark and also Spain.
I’ve got one gal whos riding the 3k trip on a Sportster — Impressive. She must be the toughest woman alive 🙂
My Van Driver is a guy named Steve, a very experienced guide. I enjoy the hell out of his company, so that makes it even better. Steve is a good soul.
Man, almost 3 weeks on the road — my favorite thing. 2 on a bike crossing half way across the US, and then bringing the Van back to California after the trip. I’ll have a few days to explore a bit on the way home. I’ve never seen the Alamo, and I plan on doing that. Maybe big bend Texas. I’d like to check out a swamp at some point, and see some gators. Who knows, I’ll shoot from the hip at that point.
The last three weeks Death Valley has been over 115 degrees, and by Wednesday, it’ll be only 102. Thats a huge Bonus. If you’re not used to riding in the Desert, that can mess you up. 102 should be manageable.
I compressed a little time at work this month, kicked a little ass and I’ll hit my monthly work goal in the first 2 weeks, so I’ll leave knowing I handled my shit. Another bonus.
I love my job and what I do, but I gotta say I’m excited to be with people who are older and closer to my age for a few weeks.
I’m ready to go — I’ve been ready for a week now. Its time to ride.
I just got home from work, and saw that Peter Fonda has died at the age of 79 from lung cancer.
A nod to the man who produced and came up with the idea of Easy Rider. I’m glad he made it to the 50th anniversary of a movie that hit a nerve of the times, rocked the movie making establishment and inspired me at a young age to ride.
I’ve always had mixed feelings about Fonda, to be honest. Some of the things he did I loved, others I hated. Some of those things, I put in the book.
But, at the end of the day he made a helluva film that inspired me, and I gotta say in a way, had a pretty big influence on the direction of my life. It Was Easy Rider that inspired me to buy my first street bike, and start exploring the country.
I have some things I want to say, but now isn’t the time other than to say Rest in Peace sir, and thank you.
51 years ago in 1968, Dennis Hopper and his brother in law went out scouting for locations for a low budget movie called Easy Rider. The job was to scout the locations and report back to the crew. Between Taos New Mexico and New Orleans, They found Morganza Louisiana. On the edge of the Mississippi river, Morganza is a small, sleepy little southern Town, with not much of anything around it. In the heart of town, was a local cafe called Melanchon’s. It was perfect for the film.
They originally had hired a local acting troupe lined up to play in the Movie, but upon arrival, Dennis decided the locals were a better fit. It was in Morganza that the famous Cafe Scenes were filmed.
Over 3 days they filmed in Morganza.
The town has never forgotten it.
They’ve been doing various events over the last year commemorating Easy Rider and next month they’re doing a big Easy Rider Festival.
I’ve gotten to know this crew a little bit over the years, and I love these guys. The gal who is spearheading this is a firecracker, and a helluva sweet lady. They’ve got some good stuff planned.
Worth checking out, this one should be a blast. Meet some of the people in the movie, and they’ve got a few more surprises. If you’re an ER fan, this is a must see.
Since Easy Rider came out, almost 50 years ago there has always been the question on what happened to the Captain America bike. There were two; one was blown up and burned at the end of the move, and given to Dan Haggerty who supposedly rebuilt it. The other one (which appeared in most of the film) was stolen before the movie was even finished filming. There’s also been a handful of people who claimed to have put together the original bike, and I’ve found most to be problematic.
I think those bikes are long-ass gone.
The rumor that I tend to believe is that the remaining bikes were stolen by a certain 1% bike club, as a bit of payment and maybe even vendetta against Peter Fonda for events that happened during the making of “Hells Angels on wheels”.
Easy Rider took a year to edit and then premiere. Bikes are stolen and sold, fairly quickly for money. No one knew the bikes were going to be famous or that Easy Rider was going to be a hit, any more than all the other dozen B-movie motorcycle films that were showing up as the 3rd feature in drive ins all over the country. They certainly didn’t wait an entire year to find out. They were stolen, and they were sold, more than likely parted out.
Several people have popped up over the years (including Haggerty) claiming to have the original bike, and eager bike historians have bitten on the bait. Some were endorsed by Haggerty and even Fonda, who later back-pedaled on the endorsement. Haggerty has sold more than one “original bike”.
My take is that they’re long gone. Ray Charles could seen that, when you take in the circumstance and history of Easy Rider.
But a few weeks ago my friend Manchester Paul (whom I’ve ridden the Easy Rider route with) sent me some info on an Original Easy Rider bike that actually comes with some proof.
The original script had Billy and Wyatt as carnival stuntmen who were going for the big money by making a big drug haul. You see hints of this in the opening scene, where they show up on dirt bikes. They were headliners baby!
Bonhams Auctions in the UK got Fonda’s original 1968 Bultaco Pursang 250 MkII. It was sold, for an undisclosed amount, complete with an invoice from Bultaco Western to the Pando Company. Matching Numbers on the engine and frame…. I thought it was pretty cool.
Here’s the notes on the Auction:
Peter Fonda is a genuine motorcycle riding enthusiast and so when contemplating the task in his own movie, as his character Wyatt, of riding a chopper, he did not hesitate. But you can bet he jumped higher when engaged to also ride this Bultaco for a Pursang is an agile, go anywhere, lightweight that spells fun and turns on a sixpence…unlike Captain America!
To put into context, Bultaco’s premier model in the USA, the Pursang, was a powerful 250 cc comp model. It was a winner in virtually any type of high-speed-based off-road event. The Pursang range was later expanded to 360 cc and 370 cc, and reduced also to 125 cc.The boat-tail 250 MKII pushed out 34 horsepower from the crate and with the standard 5-speed was thought to be the fastest 250 in 1968. Warning: Do not let that high pipe burn your right leg!
This Pursang – now repainted and restored but still in ‘film used condition’ – is one of two bikes supplied by Bultaco to Peter Fonda’s Pando Company for ‘movie use’ in Easy Rider…see the invoice from Bultaco in the bike’s history file. Wyatt rides this Pursang to the La Contenta Bar to ‘do a deal’ in the very first scene. Billy, Dennis Hopper’s character, is riding a CZ motocrosser in the very same scene. From then on in the two are riding a pair of choppers.
When they finally finished filming Easy Rider, Dennis Hopper took the footage to his home in Taos New Mexico to begin editing it. It took about a year, and hopper had the film down to 3 hours long, which included a long police chase scene. He wouldn’t budge when they suggested he cut it down to a standard length film, but he finally relented and they edited it down to 90 minutes, in which the chase scene was cut out. This picture is from a photographer who traveled with the film crew, and to my knowledge, have never been seen before. I have hundreds of these never before seen pictures that I’ll be showing on my Instagram account over the next few weeks, with some of the stories behind them.
A few people have asked me why I like Easy Rider so much. Anytime I’m asked what my favorite movie is, I’ll always say Easy Rider. It must be, because I’ve spent at least 20 years chasing down locations from it. I think it’s my favorite movie because of all the fun I’ve had finding those locations. At first, it was just a cheap excuse to ride somewhere and put the puzzle pieces together. When I watch the movie now, it gets intertwined with all the people I’ve met, and the fun I’ve had finding these places.
I first posted the route 10 years ago on this blog. A lot has changed since then, and I’ve had a helluva lotta fun with the tours and the documentaries, etc. I’ve ridden and became friends with some pretty fucking cool people. I really need to re-write the whole thing, because I have so much more info now then I did back then.
Anyway….
The last place I’ve never identified was the Tire change scene. It’s the ranch house where Billy and Wyatt showed up with a flat tire, and scored a groovy dinner at lunch time. I’ve always figgered it was around Valentine Arizona, and I was right. A German biker named Berndt hit me up and inspired me to finally get off my ass and go check it out, finally. Thanks Berndt!
Here’s the scene:
I found it. It’s right dead center between Valentine and Hackberry. I didn’t go up to the place, but I can tell you it’s the place. The mountains all line up. It was posted “No Trespassing” and in Rural Arizona, if you’re smart you pay a little heed to those signs. Mostly, because its a good place to get shot if you don’t. With a little respect and some time, I’ll be able to get in and talk to the owners and see if I can get some good pictures.
They Shot a lot of scenes around here. One of the most famous pictures of ER was also shot, just at within a mile or two of the turn off.
Spent a lot of years riding and researching it and having a hell of a lot of fun along the way…. Ridden it from LA to New Orleans several times and a few times with some of the best people I know.
A buddy of mine from the UK who loves the movie as much as I do hit me up about doing the ride again for the 50th Anniversary of Easy Rider. It’s been sorta in the works since 2013, when we rode the route together. This time, its going to be a little more grass roots than it was with Eagle Rider. A little more truer to the route, maybe a little camping where they camped, and a little more fun. We’re putting together the itinerary now.
I’ve been chomping at the bit to make a few miles since I moved here 6 months ago, and I finally got my chance. Twist a throttle, see a thing and get out of town.
Wednesday morning at 6 AM I hit the road. The thing about the desert in the summer, is you have to hit the road early; its the coolest time of the day. Heat wears you out on long rides and if you can, avoid it. It’s the secret to riding in Southern Arizona.
My dad always said take twice the money and half the clothes. I loaded up the night before, got the rest in the morning and got the hell out of town. With the morning commute going, it took about an hour to get out of the city. I hit the 17 and headed north. The road opened up and a killer day was ahead. Up to the Mountains of Flagstaff. The weather got cooler, and the ride more focused; It was turning out to be a fucking cool ride.
500 Miles to St George Utah
Life can load you up with insignificant bullshit over time. This ride was to get some of that out, examine it and see it for what it was. It’s funny how a long ride can do that. I’ve always said that you need a 3 day ride; the first day all the bullshit drains out — the second day you are back to being yourself; the 3rd day is pure inspiration. I was on day 1 of a long ride. The bullshit drained out pretty fast. I had time, and there was lots of road ahead.
I got gas in Flagstaff, and up through the best road in Arizona — the Sunset Crater/Waputki Loop. It’s on the edge of the Mountains and the high plains, and you get a little of both.
Sunset Crater. The best road in Arizona
Up through my old stomping grounds of Northern Arizona and Southern Utah, I finally landed to see an old friend in St George, 500 miles later. It was good to see him. We hung out in his garage and drank beer till 1:30 in the morning. A much needed shot in the arm. Good old friends are a rarity; I’ve had a few, but maybe this was one of the best. We laughed, bitched, and solved the worlds problems all in his garage. It was a killer evening.
I loaded up and rode down to the Harley Dealership to get a new back tire. It took them about 2 hours, and a little bit of bullshit to get it done. I rolled out, and headed south on 1-15.
I hit the Overton Nevada loop to get off the Interstate. Great side route, but its always been full of those tar snakes that in the heat, make your bike get all squirrely: They’d paved that road since I was last on it, and it was pretty nice. it was 2 hours of a great ride. All to the Eagles. I twisted through some desert turns in the 100 degree heat, and milked the hell out of the fact that this was a great ride already on day 2. I decided to ride into Needles California instead of Kingman AZ for the night. Maybe I could see a little more road, and milk it out some that way. My only other option was Barstow, but I didn’t want to ride that much of the Interstate.
I rolled into Needles California and found an old familiar sign:
The Mother Road
Needles was hot. 105 degrees. I got a room for the night, cranked up the AC and tried to find the Penguins game on TV. It was the playoffs, but apparently this motel didn’t have that channel. No matter; Mrs Zip kept me in the loop over text as to the score. I was beat, and eventually fell asleep before I’d learned the ending. I woke up to find we’d won the series and was moving on to the Stanley Cup Finals. Hell yes.
I got back on the road and headed East. Toward Oatman. Crossed the mighty Colorado river:
A beautiful Colorado River Morning
I got a gopro about a year ago, and have been screwing around with it a little bit. I shot some footage that didn’t turn out, but shot a few that did.
There’s a lot of movie history at the Colorado River:
I’d argue that Steppenwolf and Easy rider made Peter Fonda famous here.
I’d also Argue that his father Henry Fonda at a young age also got famous here from the Grapes of Wrath:
The Grapes of wrath: This bridge is still there.
Same Bridge, from the movie: The bridge in the foreground was torn down in 1977, but the Grapes of wrath bridge pre-dating route 66 is still there, and supports a pipe line now.
Then, I rode into one of my favorite places: Oatman Arizona.
Oatman Arizona in the mornin
I rolled through Kingman, and north into route 66. I enjoy the hell out of that ride. the weather was cool and my bike purred. I don’t know that I’ll ever get sick of that road. I took as much of the side roads as I could, and by dusk I camped out in Bellemont Arizona on old route 66.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTY2Z0XBiQg
I broke my phone somehow on this trip, and lost a lot of my pictures, or I’d have more. I had some cool shots. Dammit….Shit does happen 🙂
It was nice and cool in Flagstaff. I rode through Winslow, and headed south to home.
Great ride. There’s so much of Arizona I want to explore and will. This was kind a re-connection trip. See an old friend, re-visit some old roads I’ve ridden before and see how things have changed. A lot has. For the better.
I think it’s time to head east now, maybe to Santa Fe, West Texas or even Oklahoma. There’s plenty of road to explore.
