A bit of a late start this morning, but no big deal. We had a short day. I enjoyed Furnace Creek Ranch. Nice accomodations, and the weather was cooler here than other times I’d been to death valley. Around 100 degrees. Normally, this place is a blast furnace. We mounted up, got gas, and explored Death Valley.
I used to ride to this area on a friday night, after work. I’d forgotten how much I missed the desert. It’s open, wide open and rugged. The desert gets in your soul somehow.
We rode up to Zabriskie Point, and took a few pictures. Apparently, Zabriskie point was also a counterculture film about America in the sixties. One I need to check out.
Pete, taking pictures of the ladies. Thats how Pete Rolls.Brandon, in his natural habitat. Brandon is a good egg.John, and the Captain.
We left Zabriskie Point and headed the 16 miles to to Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the US. I’ve been to death Valley a bunch, but I’d never been here.
My bike was starting to stretch her legs. Really enjoyable ride.
Badwater Basin, Death Valley CA – About 3/4 of the way up that hill is sea level.
From there we pressed on. More open road. I was really enjoying this ride.
Heading out of Death ValleyCoyotes
The Aussies taught me a new word. “crack a ton”, means break 100 MPH. I likey.
We rode to Shoshone, California, got gas and had lunch at the Crowbar Cafe and Saloon. There’s not much in Shoshone, and I’m not quite sure the crowbar was ready for all of us to show up.
Crowbar Cafe and Saloon- Shoshone CA
Then on to Baker. Cooled off at the Mad Greek, got an ice cream, then headed into Barstow.
We got into Barstow in the late afternoon. The Motel there had lost the ability to program keys, and the pool was out. Not that big of a deal. The nice thing, is the train behind the Motel only raged past every 30 minutes or so. It was kind of funny. I think EagleRider thought more about it than we did.
I stayed in that night, doing some work. The Whitehursts from the UK got married that night. At least I think.
Everyone had been checked out on their bikes, we had a welcome dinner the night before and were all ready to ride. left the Hotel after breakfast, mounted up, and headed out. First stop was LAX, a couple of miles away. This is where Billy and Wyatt sold the 2 batteries of whatever-that-white-powder-was before their ride to Mardi Gras.
Getting locked and loaded, ready to start out. Finding Easy Rider.First Stop, LAX. Painting a picture of what happened here in Easy Rider in 1969. That punk Phil Spector was a no-show. Fokker.
From there, we made miles. Headed out of the city…. a long way from the city, because that’s where we wanted to be. Out of LA, to Death Valley. More Easy Rider there — The scenery started to open up, and the riding started to get nice.
First Gas Stop. I have no idea where this is. California, something.
You can tell a lot from a crew by the way they ride. This was a good crew. Everyone kept tight where they needed to be, and loose where they wanted. They’d done this before. Steve, Our tour guide got a flat in the California desert. Hazards of going first I guess. No matter, we had a spare bike and EagleRider had it handled. That spare bike came in handy. We hydrated at a rest stop for a short time, and that was the last bike incident of the trip. We headed north on the 395 towards Ballarat.
Rest stop in California, Swapping bikes. If there are road hazards, Steve will take a bullet for the team and run over them for you.Open Road Ahead. I’ve missed the desert.
San Bernardino county is the largest county in the US, and it took us awhile to cross it. Stopped for lunch in Trona, California. Trona is a funny place. Pretty clearly a company mining town. I gotta say, They make a good burger. We were all fired up. Shawn and Bob busted out Captain America. This was the Easy Rider Tour, after all. It had to happen.
Busting out Captain America in Trona
Graham from the UK is hardcore Easy Rider. He’s got a replica Captain America bike signed by Peter Fonda. He knows the movie by heart. A great guy. Amicable, and really pretty damn funny. We started throwing movie references at each other by now. He was the first to take the helm. It seemed right.
My turn on the Captain.
We headed out of Trona, and made the 20 miles into Ballarat, where the movie really began.
Shorty Harris’s Home, Ballarat.Ditch your watch.Like Captain America DidShorty Harris House Now. It’s fallen in more since I saw it last.The bike and I, Ballarat. A good moment.
It was here that one of the top 5 most embarrassing moments of my life happened. We were waiting for Graham, who was riding Captain America and missed the turn off to Ballarat. We were waiting for him, before I talked about what happened here in the movie. I took a drink of water (A man needs to hydrate), right when Bob said “Graham couldn’t make the turn, riding with an erection”. I lost it. It was then I spewed water all over the nicest lady you’ll ever meet, Martine from Beligium. She took it in stride, and I’m pretty sure I turned red.
Recovering from spraying Martine with Water. Eggghhh..Heading out of Ballarat
I never set up a song for this trip. when we left, I shook the ipod and whatever played, played. Half way up the road, Born to Be wild started playing, just like it did in the film. Another good omen. It was perfect. We were starting the riding part of the movie, and I was eating it up.
From Ballarat, we headed the 80 miles to Furnace Creek for the night. Its an EagleRider tradition to crack a beer in the parking lot, and toast to the days ride. The first day was under our belt. Had dinner with Graham and the Aussies, then turned in for the night. Great first day. I slept like a baby, looking forward to another one.
Exactly one week ago, about this time, I was sitting in the Court of Two Sisters, a Restaurant in the French Quarter of New Orleans, wondering where the last 2 weeks went.
After 2 weeks of riding, I was pretty beat. We’d ridden half way across the country, But I really didn’t want it to be over. Met some solid and quality people on this trip, got to tell about the movie that I love and spend years figgering out, and had the longest stretch of riding I’d ever done at one time. Basically, I just had the best time of my life.
I was going to do this post each night on the road, but I wanted time to think about it some. Even one week later, I’m still not sure I’ve digested it all.
So anyway, going to take this day by day, as I remember it, starting over 3 weeks ago. Ill get through as much of it as I can. A post a day, for the next 15 days should cover it.
To me, it was the best time of my life. I wanna do it again.
It has been a long time. Since my business crashed and burned over a year ago, I just haven’t had the or money time to ride. Its in me to keep my family straight, and that’s my sacred trust to them. I guess second to riding.
I had her covered up and put away. Trickle charger in place, covered properly. Fuel additive, fuel tank….. ready for winter. Thank god the weather broke, and maybe my mojo.
So I loaded up the Road King. I think the last time I was in Wendover Nevada was 1982, when I got certified in scuba diving. I was just a kid, and I don’t remember much about the town. I just needed a ride. Things are starting to break for me again, and opening up a throttle over a new stretch of road seemed kinda right to me. I was right. The night before I found where the Enola Gay had taken off from Wendover, and that there was an Air Museum there and a whole lot of WWII buildings that haven’t changed much since the war. Perfect.
The Enola Gay was the bomber that dropped the first atomic bomb on Japan. Obviously, you know this. I don’t know why I’m even typing it out.
About 40 miles out of town I got this image in my head that still haunts me. It was an old man. Obviously a biker (once you get it, you never really stop being one) who saw my bike with a sleeping bag on back who just kept staring at me. After a few stop lights, he rolled down the window at the last intersection before I got on the freeway, and twisted his body around to give me the thumbs up. I could see how old he was up close now. I gave him the thumbs up back and he kept his in the air, and I wished I coulda taken a picture of his face. he was serious and waved me on as I got on the freeway. I opened her up, and thought about that old man for the next 50 miles. That might be me someday; old, can’t keep my bike vertical in the garage let alone a freeway, and being hauled around in a cage by someone who has no idea what the open road looks like. I almost wish I coulda gone back to that moment and shook his hand. I can tell a fake, and this guy wasn’t. He’d weathered some miles before. I don’t know why it struck me so much. I’ve had the looks before. The nervous moms peeking sideways at the bearded biker next to their car. The young kid who just wants to be free and can’t tell the difference between a Honda and a Harley The girls who just want to wave…. the guy who’s got a bike in his garage, Harley sticker on his truck and just wants to show me up…. This guy was the real deal. I’ll never know his stories, but I’d bet my paycheck he had some great ones. I could see it in his eyes.
Rode up through Fairfield Utah, Found a place to put a few rounds through my 9, and felt myself starting to breathe. Remembered why I love riding so much. It was almost a religious experience.
Near Fairfield Utah
There is new territory up here. I’ll be honest, I miss the desert. The history is different up here, and the terrain lends to different riding. Some people think a long straight road in Nevada is like having their appendix removed. To me, its good. The weather was cool and there wasn’t many bikes on the road. I hit Tooele, hung a left and headed through the salt flats. More history…
Bonneville Salt Flats
Man, I gotta say… I might have been converted from a Street Glide to a Road King. Either way, I love this bike. I opened her up a couple times, and she’s pretty comfortable at 120. Speedo got pegged, and she had more in her. The RK is a pleasure to tour on.
Got pulled over on the Nevada side for not having a helmet, grabbed a burger and a bottle of good scotch and headed back to the KOA to pitch my tent and sum up what I’d just learned, Again. I can’t go too long without a good ride. I swear to god it puts years on my life.
Home for the night. Wendover Nevada KOA
Took this picture because it reminded me of Easy Rider. Remember that shot?
The next morning I waited for it to warm up, packed the bike slow and headed out by 10. Went down to Wendover Airfield.
Really cool little museum.
Colonol Paul Tibbets Signature on a replica of little boy, the first atomic bomb
The rest of the base was almost the best part. You can tell it has struggled on funding, and to me that’s half the appeal. Its rusty gold, cleaned up but nowhere polished. Maybe the closest thing to being in 1945. Some of the buildings were sold off after the war, and others just have signs and are waiting for money before they can restore them. Either way, you can walk through it all and get a feel of what it was like to live on this base during the great war. This was where all the training happened for what ended world war II. The whole place reeks of history. Man, Awesome.
Original Air Tower, Wendover Air Field.
Long View of part of the Old Wendover Air Base
one of the planes from the Movie “Con Air”
The Enola Gay Hanger
From even a couple of years ago, the Enola Gay Hanger was falling in on itself. They’ve spent some money to restore it. I could only see it from the outside. There’s an 8 hour tour they do once a year, and I suspect I’ll be the only guy without gray hair that goes to it. (fuck if I know If I have any gray hair, I got no hair!). Either way, I’ll go next year. This place has a lot of ghosts.
The rest was great. I had planned to spend more time, but got a call from my family that needed my attention and forced me to head home earlier than I wanted. All good. I’ll come back. Wendover is no ones vacation but mine I think.
Its pretty cold out, but tomorrow, gonna run a couple hundred miles and find this place:
Any idea what it is? Some powerful history there.
Never done an overnighter on the road king yet. Its gonna be cold, but funner than hell. I live up here, better start taking the time to scout the perimeter.
Seems like I’ve been working a lot lately. Things hit a break, just in time for my wifes annual family reunion. We’ve been since before we were married, and now that I live closer I figured it a good time to see if I could find some back roads to the annual event.
I was the guy in st george who knew every single road for 500 miles. The guy who planned poker runs, weekend trips and went nuts to see where that road jutted out from a backroad, and where it went. Man, I’m not up here. It kind of drives me nuts. Up here, I ask a lot of questions, Mostly to the old timers, who are glad to tell you their stories and tell you some background that’s interesting to me. I’ts nice to learn a whole new set of roads, do some exploring and hopefully share it with someone else down the road. Summers are short here, so you gotta make hay while the sun shines.
Been riding with some of the locals lately, so was able to stay off the interstate and mozy toward my goal. I found a lot of historical markers I passed, some railway markers, and even hit a short spurt of the old Lincoln Highway. Things I’ll explore later, because they’ll fill in the blanks and make the ride more exciting later. Right now, I was going macro. We’ll go micro later.
Riding alone, for me is relaxing. I set my own pace, worry about my own shit and stop at random curiosities when I want. The weather is nice now. It’s time to step it up.
Kamas utah is an old utah farming town and is just a great ride. Oakley, Peoa, all great riding. Coalville needs to be explored, but I just rubbernecked through it and see its alive and kicking, much like an old route 66 town. I rounded rockport lake, at what what was clearly the old road (Spotting old, per interstate highways has become old hat), crossed under the freeway that goes to Evanston Wyoming and soon I was in Echo Utah.
Echo was a significant place during the heyday of the railroad. It held coal, and helper trains up the Wasatch. It was at the mouth of the main artery from Wyoming, and Salt Lake. Echo still holds rail cars at its junction, but not much else. As you ride by, you can smell the unique grease and metal that only railroads produce. It told me that something interesting was coming up, and escorted me out of town. It was US Route 30, and It’s high point was world war II. As of now, its just a trailer park. it has ghosts. Man, I felt like I was on route 66. this cafe was just full of questions for me. . I figured my inlaws who were born in this area would have some stories.
The Kozy Cafe, Echo Utah – Click all these pictures for more detailModern Motel
The dining room neon.Specialties. We all love specialties.
Frank’s Echo service, just next door. It’s modern gas pumps tells that frank was swinging hard, till the end. Lots of service happened here. Frank did not fail.The Kozy Cafe, Echo Utah200 grand and its yours.I love this shotNo way I’d have not stopped here. Makes me wish I’d have lived 20 years ago, let alone in its heyday.The Kozy Cafe, Echo UtahThe business man in me says he’s a little proud of his place. Sorry bro, the freeway sliced that price all to hell.Welcome to the Kozy Motel. I’d stay here now…Lots of stories here I bet…The kozy had gas, food and lodging. You don’t need much more…The Kozy Cafe and Motel Echo UtahThe Kozy Cafe and Motel Echo UtahThe Echo Cafe, Echo utah. Right next door the the Kozy. Cold Beer!I love a guinness at room temperature, but refuse to not stop at a neon sign proclaiming cold beer. They just don’t do it like this anymore.
I hit the reunion with my phone pictures, and I did get a few stories. Mostly they were surprised I thought so much of the place. To them, it was just a place growing up. it’s 200 yards from the interstate, and a mile of backroads to get to it for no reason. The fact that the Kozy survived so many years later is a testament to itself. Former employees claim its haunted. The last thing I found was that it was open as late as 2009. I wished I’d have ate there. I’d have swung wide to help keep a place like this open. Kinda sad.
After the reunion I doubled back with my oldest daughter on the back of the bike, and my wife and other kids following. We found a new road, and I noticed some junctions I need to chase down, with some local advice on where they go and how beautiful they are. These are my next road goals. I’m going to find em, take some pictures and post em on the blog. I got no doubt I’ll come back with something good.
My father was a busy man, and I’ll always remember the time he took time out to go one on one with me and took me to yellowstone. We shot from the hip, slept in the truck and It’s a memory I’ll always remember. Not because it was the best trip I’ve ever done, or even that it was yellowstone. It’s because my old man chose me to spend his weekend with. I’ll always remember that. I was about 13, and it was a pretty special trip for me.
My daughter wendy has struggled a bit since she moved from her old school to her new. She’s a fighter, and she may never know how proud I am of her, but I am. I called her wednesday from work and asked her if she was up for a motorcycle adventure. her answer was yes.
So friday at noon we headed out East. My loose plan was to hit page, then either stay in Kayenta Arizona, or somewhere outside monument valley at dusk. To be honest, Just like 35 years earlier with my dad, we were shooting from the hip. I hadn’t booked a thing. Thats how I like to ride, lets see what wendy thinks about that. My gut feeling was she’d roll with the punches.
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We stopped in page to get some stuff we’d forgotten and stopped at the subway to eat. Immediately inside, a lady saw my B.A.C.A. patch and told me how much B.A.C.A. had helped her kid in idaho. She was nearly in tears and you could see how grateful she was. I told her that once a B.A.C.A. Kid, always a B.A.C.A. kid and she’s got an army of bikers across the nation committed to keeping her safe. It’s nice to be able to say that and mean it.
After page, we had to stop for an accident on the way out of town, then headed toward Kayenta Arizona. From there, we pressed on to Kayenta arizona to stay the night. My thinking was, that wendy is 13 years old, and I didn’t want to burn her out on long rides by pushing too hard. I can make miles, but after all, she is young. I had to keep reminding myself, and being on a bike for 8-10 hours at a time my be my idea of fun, but this trip was for her as well. By the time we got to Kayenta, she was a bit cold, a bit tired and wanted to crash. we called robyn to see if we could find a place to pitch a tent or get a room, but there were no real options. I told wendy we’d have to push another 50 miles to Bluff Utah, where I had called ahead and knew we could stay, and her answer was “lets just do it”. I knew then, wendy was my riding buddy. She had a bit of her old man in her.
We hit monument valley right as the sun was going down, and it was gorgeous for the few views we had of it. She was cold, but we dropped 1500 feet in elevation and in 50 miles, we hit Bluff Utah, pitched our tent in the dark, and went and ate ribs at the local stakehouse.
My intent on this trip was to talk, and relate to my daughter. Reconnect. I don’t really remember what it’s like to be 13 years old, but I know she struggles with the things that are important to a 13 year old. Boys, school, and wondering where you fit in. We didn’t talk too much in depth, but I knew tonight was not our night. We went back to the tent where my daughter immediately crashed out, and I made some phone calls to my business partner, a few BACA friends and caught up on what happened at work. What happened during the day both encouraged and discouraged me: I knew that I was going back to work monday to face problems. I knew this was going to effect my ride. I was also clear on what my objective was this trip: Ride my bike, and connect with wendy and help her out.
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We woke up early that morning and I knew it was cold. Cold that I would normally deal with, but I had my daughter with me. We got going around 10, broke camp and got some conveneince store breakfasts in Bluff. We had 50 miles to get to 4 corners. I’d never been there, but 50 miles is an easy ride.
4 corners to me, was anti climactic. First off, its not that actual 4 corners, its 3 miles off. Second, It kind of pissed me off that I had to pay 3 bucks a head to see it. It was cold and windy, and not all that cool. Yes, wendy and I can say that we’ve stood in 4 states at the same time, but then again who really cares that we can say that.
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we paid our 6 bucks at 4 corners, and headed on toward gallup new mexico. New mexico is gorgeous and I want to explore it more. We got gas in gallup, and headed south. I knew we’d stay the night in holbrook by this point. We could press on to flagstaff, but the weather in Holbrook was the best and I wanted to have some discussion time with wendy. Sunday, I knew we’d make miles and head home. I wanted some quality time with my daughter. It’s half the reason we made this trip. My mindset from 4 corners to holbrook was anything but right. I knew I was going back to work monday with a lot of problems that had to be solved, that depended on me. I struggled to get my mind right and into the ride. The 90 miles from 4 corners to Gallup New Mexico had me struggling with indecision of if I was doing the right thing by riding so far from home, and what I had to get done monday. Long rides sort that out. Eventually, I got back into the moment and realized that anything I do with my daughter and family is much more important and worthwhile and that I needed to focus on her. By the time we hit Gallup, I was looking forward to having some quality time with my daughter. I was 24 hours into the ride. I knew it had to be tonight.
We stopped at Denny’s, got our bearings and I knew we’d hit the point where the bike was going to be pointing closer to home. I also know theres something really familiar about route 66 that I’ve always loved. Maybe wendy would pick up on my vibe and I could share that with her.
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We pulled into holbrook around 4 pm, and pitched our tent at the KOA. I decided I was going to show wendy some route 66, and she was excited about that. We had ice cream at a local route 66 food spot, and rode through the town. As we headed back toward the KOA, I was thinking that maybe a campfire and a discussion would be a perfect chance to talk with Wendy and we could have a moment that would nail the reason I took her on this trip. We bought some firewood, and sat and talked for a couple hours. Honestly, it will be moment I’ll always remember. I hope she remembers it. I babbled about her future, remembered what it’s like to be 13, and as long as it takes to burn a bundle of wood, we got that much closer. She’s a great kid. I’m so proud of her. In those 2 hours, I think she got that message in a way that 25 years earlier my father maybe even didn’t get across to me. I knew I’d nailed the moment.
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The next morning, we woke up early, broke camp and headed toward home. As the sun came up, the eagles “tequila sunrise” was in my head, and so I queued that up in the ipod and listened to the eagles as we headed toward flagstaff. We got off at winona, headed into flag, got some hot chocolate and coffee and both talked about how good the morning ride was, even tho it wasn’t all that warm.
I find it funny how “vibes” for lack of a better term, work. I woke up in a great mood, with the right music and the first thing wendy said when we piled off the bike in flagstaff was how much she enjoyed listening to the Eagles greatest hits. It was the right vibe. I think about that alot to be honest.
From flag we dropped off the mountain, and headed the 5 hours toward home. If wendy had her way, we’d have ridden another week. She’s my riding buddy and long rides and big mileage isn’t too big for her. We’ll do this again. Hopefully for years to come.
All rides are good. Anything over 200 miles where you sleep somewhere new is memorable. Some are more memorable than most.
Early Friday afternoon I rode north to meet my brother Pat at Beryl Junction, about 50 miles away. He rode down from Salt Lake and it’d been a while since we’d ridden together. A few months. I was pretty glad to see him. I’ve said this before, but it’s pretty effortless to ride with him. We’ve settled into a good mixture of fun, beers, an occasional cigar, and busting each others chops. It’s always good company, and Pat is a rider to the core.
We rode the 50 miles to Caliente and stopped at the Knotty Pine for a brew and some burgers. We thought about staying in Caliente for the night, but decided to head on into Rachel Nevada, and I’m glad we did. We rode, Wyatt Earp Style. Great Fun.
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Rachel was great. we had supper there and a few more beers and The Little A’Le’Inn was a nice place to stay. Good Service, cheap prices and interesting people. We we smoked cuban cigars and drank 18 year old scotch as the sun set on the nevada desert. We crashed pretty early, watching Soylent Green on the VCR. Soylent Green, as you know, is people.
I gotta tell you, if you can’t have a good time riding to the UFO capital of the world on the edge of Area 51, smoking cuban cigars, 18 year old scotch and staying in a single wide trailer converted into a motel room watching Soylent Green…. well, your wick is wet. Have If you haven’t seen it, here’s a preview:
Chuck heston is the Shit. I swear the man does his own stunts, in a leisure suit no less! Charleton Heston is my president. I’m gonna be a dick and give you the spoiler right now. If you don’t want to know it, then don’t click this one:
Side note: There, I found the cure for a sore throat at 11 pm at night. A “Nuclear Bomb” is 3/4 shotglass of Tobasco sauce, and 1/4 shotglass of tequila. Instant cure.
The next morning we woke up, skipped breakfast and headed 50 miles to warm springs. Warm Springs Nevada i’ve been to a few times, but this time we checked out the hot springs and some of the old structures. Lots of ghosts there with some unknown stories. I’d still love to hear of someone who knows when warm springs was alive and kicking.
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From warm Springs we went into Tonopah and finally had cell service again, called our wives and had lunch, then moved onto Beatty.
Then we found Goldfield. I wished we’d spent more time there. At one time it was a town of 30,000 people as a Nevada Boom town from the turn of the 20th century. 400 people live there now, mostly because it’s still the county seat. Some neat old artifacts and really old buildings in great shape. I want to go back. Supposedly, the hotel is haunted, and we just drove right by it, not knowing.
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From there on, it was just hot. Well over 100, we opened up and made time. We still had to get to what was our loose destination, the Ghost town of Ryolite Nevada. We pulled in around 1:30 and gassed up, and found us a good bar to settle into to decide what was next. We decided to stay for the night. Our original plan was to ride to Mt Charleston, 100 miles away and tent for the night. We both realized that the 4th of july weekend would make it rough to get a camp spot. Besides, this was a pretty good bar! and there was 3 more next to it, and a hotel across the street where we could park the bikes and walk. We got a room, and then headed into Rhyolite.
Rhyolite Nevada is a ghost town I’d seen on the history channel a week earlier, and realizing it was not all that far away, wanted to go see it. We headed the 4 miles up the road to go check it out.
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Rhyolite started in 1904 when gold was discovered. by 1908 Rhyolite had 10,000 people, forty-five saloons, 3 of the most modern banks in the state, an opera house, a Stock Exchange, a slaughterhouse, two railroad depots, three public swimming pools and dozens of businesses. Rhyolite supported over 85 mining companies. It had power, piped water, telephones, sidewalks and entertainment.
By 1909, it had less than 1,000 people. By 1915, 20 people. by 1924 it’s last remaining resident died.
All that’s left is some of the most bitchen ruins I’ve ever seen. Including a house made up entirely of bottles, a full train depot, and crumbling buildings.
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We stopped and had a beer in the heat, and tripped out over the history and archetecture of a city who’s time had long since passed. It’s amazing to see that in only 100 years a town can disappear. Monolith’s to the history of man.
We took a dirt road deeper into Rhyolite to check out the old jail. When we pulled up, a woman approached us and explained she was making a movie and asked if she could use one of our bikes. I said no. I did not know this woman, and quite honestly, noone sits on my bike but me unless I know them pretty well. Pat was much more open and talked me into letting them use it in their movie.
So a girl got out of her car, walked up to my bike, and started taking off her clothes. It got pretty interesting, and I found that I was hasty in saying no so quickly. I’m a happily married man who is loyal to my wife. This was also not what I thought I’d find at Rhyolite. They were 5 kids from UCLA making a movie about a muslim woman. I started up the bike so they could get the full effect. I will say this, they have good taste in motorcycles. Fast women I think, can sense speed.
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We shook hands, got a picture or two and headed back to the bar to have dinner.
Beatty nevada was a pretty cool town for a town of 1100 people. We found a good spot that served a mean sandwitch, the right kind of beer, and listened to a classic rock band play songs directly from my Ipod and had a great time. Even the fireworks in beatty we’re pretty good. You could sense the town pride.
We staggered back to the motel and crashed. Pat headed out around 7 to make the long ride back to Salt Lake. Thats another nice thing about riding with my brother – we don’t get get butt hurt — either one of us — if we split off to do our thing. We’re both pretty self-contained. I realized he had to go, and he realized I was probably a bit hung over and was 3 hours from home. Around 9 I headed out of town, and made it home.
Great ride. Quite honestly, the whole weekend was great. Maybe my favorite ride I’ve done. Always wanted to stay in Rachel, and being with my bro just made it fun.
My 2 closest friends of 25 years went riding this weekend. Not a long way, but 120 miles away out in the middle of nowhere in a small canyon town of Caliente Nevada. I like to ride longer distances, but when old friends want to ride at all I’ll take what I can get. the company was great, the weather was perfect and the beer flowed.
On the Road to Caliente
Harrison and Justin are just great friends. We went to high school together, and have seen our share of shit in 25 years. We rode out, played pool, drank beer and enjoyed each others company. It was a great weekend.
Caliente is a small railroad town out in the middle of nowhere in Nevada. The population is about 1,000 people. The Knotty pine is an outstanding bar, and the beer and food are cheap, so it’s become a bit of an easy overnighter for my friends and I.
Captain America and Billy didn’t screw around. (click picture for more Info)
Captain America and Billy didn’t screw around. (click picture for more Info)I’ve had quite a few questions via email about the route that Dennis Hopper and Peter Fonda rode in the 1969 Movie Easy Rider, and for the last couple of years I’ve ridden and researched it. The movie cemented me as a rider for life at a young age. Anyway, here it is. Since it’s a movie, it hops around a bit, but here’s the route:
If you’re gonna do this trip, do it right. A couple of tips: First off, Don’t sell coke to finance your trip. If you do, don’t tell anyone. Definitely don’t put coke money in your gas tank, because It’ll lower your gas mileage. If you want to go to Mexico and pretend to buy coke in an old truck, knock yourself out. Put it in 2 motorcycle batteries and go sell it to Someone who looks like Phil Spector in front of the runway at LAX. Phil would probably still buy it from you, but he’s busy now with his murder trial. Don’t be offended if he fails to calls you back. That’s how Phil rolls.
LAX then. The deal is done, count that cash and head out of town…The Same Spot TodayThis is looking west toward runway 25LRunway 25L today.
Technically, you could start at LAX, but the real riding started in Death Valley. They we’re caging it in LAX. If you know the whole story of Billy and Wyatt they were headliners, baby (and for top dollar too). They had a stunt riding side show and decided to bust out, make a run for the big cash and go looking for America.
Start out in Ballarat. Ditch the watch
Start out by going to Death Valley. Ballarat, Specifically. Ballarat is a pretty cool place, with it’s own bit of history like the gravestone of Seldom Seen Slim, and the Barker Ranch where Charles Manson family laid low after the nights they made the history books. Tex Watson’s truck is still there.
Chuck Manson’s Ride. He was a dick. A Serious Dick.
Be sure to take your watch and chuck it by the side of the road because if you’re going on this ride, You need to disregard time. It’s Easy Rider man, don’t screw this up. Find the house, and you’ll know what to do.
Ok, Watch this. It’s gonna set the tone for this whole run you’re gonna make:
Fire all of your guns at once and explode into space brother. Lets go.
Ride on out of Ballarat and head down through Boron California (Home of 20 Mule Team Borax and the Movie Erin Brockovich). Be sure and stop at the museum there in Boron, it’s actually pretty cool. Then head to Barstow. From Barstow, head east on 1-40, staying on as much of Route 66 as possible, because that would be the route they took since 1-40 wasn’t officially designated until 1984. In 1969, it was all route 66 baby! It’s pretty well marked and If you need more mappage of what the road was like in the route 66 heyday, there’s quite a bit here. I ride it at least 3 to 5 times a year, and it’s pretty well documented on this site. Kick the tires and look around.
Anyway, head toward Amboy. Stop at Roy’s and get gas, because you know they stopped there with 2 gallon Peanut gas tanks. Roy’s is one of the coolest places on the mother road. Take some pictures of the 50’s retro sign and head on down the road. Roy’s is a route 66 original and is in the process of getting resurrected to it’s former glory. Roy’s is the Shit.
My FLHX in Amboy. Roy’s is a Route 66 Classic. Captain America And Billy would have surely gotten gas here.
Keep riding through Route 66, stay to your right and get back on Interstate 40. head up through downtown Needles and back onto Interstate 40.
If you want to check out a cool scene from the movie get off past needles at Park Moabi. All the old buildings are gone now, but you’ll recognize this scene: Ride it.
Just before the Colorado River bridge (on the California side) at Park Moabi Exit.
Get back on 1-40 (It mostly lines up as Route 66 from 1966 to 1974) and cross the Mighty Colorado river at the state line. You’ll notice the bridges there, even though they’ve changed a bit since 1969. If you don’t, re-watch the credits of the movie again. You should recognize it immediately if you’re paying attention. This was the part of the movie that I knew I was an Easy Rider fan for life. Bust out your Steppenwolf, and dig where you are going. You’re an Easy Rider.
Keep going on 1-40. At Kingman, get off the freeway and follow the signs to ride the longest uninterrupted stretch of Route 66 that still remains today. It ran from the 1920’s until 1979. It’s well marked, just follow the signs.
Take Route 66 Through Kingman. You can’t hardly miss it.
The place where Billy and Wyatt fixed their bike tire and had lunch was supposedly in Valentine Arizona. I’ve found no evidence of this, but it makes sense, since Valentine is an Indian Reservation (“my wife’s a catholic, ya know” – Remember that scene?) Granted, this was on Day two of the movie, and you still haven’t gotten through the movie credit part of the ride, but that’s how movies go. Valentine is on the Hualapai Indian Reservation and is on route 66. The terrain also looks the same. I’m a bettin’ man, and I bet it was there. I also have hundreds of behind the scenes pictures that a photographer took while they were filming the movie. It’s in there, somewhere, I just haven’t found it yet.
Head through Valentine, stop at the Grand Canyon Caverns (its cool), then go into Seligman. Stop at the Snow Cap at the edge of town and eat the best hamburger with the best service you’ve ever had. The Snow Cap has been there since the 50’s. It’s another route 66 icon. Don’t get on the freeway yet at Seligman, ask any local where Crookton road is and head down that instead to stay on what was route 66 until 1979. You’ll squeeze out another 16 miles of route 66 on a great road if you do it my way, when the signs told you to get back on the interstate. It’s what Captain America and Billy would have done.
Get off the freeway and ride through Williams Arizona when you see the signs. Williams is the last town to be officially bypassed in 1984 by interstate 40, so you gotta see it. It’s still got the flavor of how it was in 1969. You’ll dig it. Get back on Interstate 40 East when you’re done, and head on down the highway…
“hey man, you got a room?”Pine Breeze Inn Today. Click Picture for more info
By the time you hit Bellemont, pull off. Get some free coffee at the Harley dealership, stop at the bar and grille next door and hear the pitch about it being the original No Vacancy Sign hanging as you walk into the bar. Since I’m giving you this information completely free of charge, I think it would be a nice touch for you to order a Guinness in the name of Mr Zip, flirt with the bartender and head a quarter mile up the road to the Pine Breeze Motel to see where billy and Wyatt we’re denied a room their first night. The bartender gal there is a sweetheart, and I’m fairly short and reasonably ugly. You’ll do better than I did.
The Pine Breeze Inn – You may be able to sleep where Billy and Wyatt Couldn’t
Ask the bartender if you can pull out a sleeping bag at the Pine Breeze, or ask the current proprietor at the Pine Breeze if he’s there. If you want to be hardcore you’ll sleep a few miles up the road by a campfire; If you want to stay where Dennis and Peter stayed, get back on the freeway and head the 10 miles into flagstaff and stay at the Americana Inn. You have a choice: Stay where Billy and Wyatt camped in the movie, or stay where actors and crew in real life slept. Either way, I don’t care. If you’ve come this far, you’re obviously a biker I’d love to ride with. It’s ALL good. You’re goin’ down to Mardi Gras to get you a Mardi Gras Queen. Start yourself a fire and kick back.
The film crew stayed at the Americana Inn
500 biker points if you sleep by the side of the road. If you’re a rich urban biker in your new Harley leathers, playing easy rider for the weekend, stay at the Americana Inn. This is an easy Rider Journey, man up and sleep under the stars. When you get to New Orleans you can get a real room and bust out some of that cash and get a groovy dinner. Right now, you gotta start this out right.
Funny story. Peter Fonda told the story of staying the night at the Americana Inn and his arms we’re so stiff from ape hanging on a hard tail all day, that he couldn’t pull his beer up to his mouth. He’d also put his leathers in the bathtub and soaked them down to give them a more weathered look, so at the end of the day his legs we’re black from the dye.
Route 66 ends where Interstate 40 cuts it off not far past the Pine Breeze inn, so double back and head East on 1-40 towards Flagstaff. Get off at Deer Farm exit and road and ride up through Parks Arizona to get back on old 66 and ride down the main street in Flagstaff a few miles later if you really want to stay true to route. Turn south on highway 89 at Flag. When you see the sign for Sunset Crater, head east there and Ride up through Waputki National Monument, Pick up a hippie (there may be one, I don’t know for sure). Queue “I wasn’t born to follow” on your ipod for the full effect.
That part, may be the best ride of your trip.
You’ll need to ride clear through Waputki, double back and get back on 89 and head south to stop at the Sacred Mountain Gas Station. It used to be a gas station, but now it’s the home of someone. He’s a pretty cool guy. He will more than likely tell you some good stories. He may not. Not many people notice his house nowadays, and you may get shot. I don’t know. Either way, you’re on an adventure. Tell the hippie on your bitch saddle he owes you a tank of gas.
Sacred Mountain Gas Station from Easy RiderSacred Mountain Gas Station Today
From Sacred Mountain, head north. Hit “the weight” by the band and listen to it as you ride. It’s a great song. Turn at hwy 16o and ride through Monument valley at dusk if you time it right. In the movie, that road ends up at Wupatki, but in real life it’s doesn’t. You’re probably not riding a hard tail chopper, so keep going until you hit Farmington New Mexico and crash for the night. Drink beer, laugh, do whatever. At this point you’re well into your easy rider trip.
If you want to be hardcore and drop off the hippie, you’ll have to swing a bit wide and head into the Malibu hills in California and look for a commune. Mulholland to be exact. Good luck finding one. Dennis Hopper wanted to film at the New Buffalo Commune, but Wavy Gravy and his people weren’t into it, so the re-created the commune in the hills of Malibu. Look for Dan Haggerty. If you don’t know what I’m talking about, then you haven’t watched the movie Easy rider and you’re a pussy. Put your Mike’s Hard lemonade down, Turn your bike around, and head back to LA. Go eat sushi and buy yourself a Vespa.
You knew this guy smoked a lot of weed. Way Too much Weed…Grizzly Adams can ride. Flat out. He was also one of the guys on the crew that watched and took care of the 2 Easy Rider bikes.
Head into Taos. There’s several scenes in Taos: Check out the Taos Pueblo and you’ll see some stuff there. They also shot the inside Jail scenes in Taos, even though I’ve never found the location. The opening scene where they bought the drugs was shot here as well (not in Mexico).
The Opening scene was shot here. The La Contenta….The La Contenta is now the Red Arrow Emporium – It’s just off the main drag coming into Taos. Ride it. .
From Taos, head into Las Vegas New Mexico. You’ll see the jail if you’re looking. Parade without a license here, because thats where that scene was shot. The outside of the jail, and the spot where Jack Nicholson (George) took his first drink of the day was here as well.
The Jail in Easy Rider from the MovieIt’s still there. The Parading without a licence scene is just around the corner in downtown Las Vegas New Mexico.
Take some Jim Beam With you, for obvious reasons. Toast to ol’ D.H. Lawrence (the crew supposedly slept on his grave the night before in Taos) NIC NIC NIC FUT FUT FUT!…… INDIANS! That’s right, you know what I’m talking about. Dream of the finest whorehouse in the south at Madam Tinkertoys House of Blue Lights. These are no porkchops, these are Grade A Prime…
The “If you wanna be a bird” sequence by the Holy Modal Rounders was filmed through Coyote New Mexico.
Remember, stop somewhere while listening to “don’t bogart that Joint” and pee on the side of the road. Anyplace will work when you’re riding. Also: You better not be wearing fingerless gloves and assless chaps man, not on this trip.
The rest of the route is a bit Hazy until you hit Morganza Louisiana. In 1969, the film crew was advised against being a long hair in the South, but Dennis Hopper was determined to do whatever he wanted film wise, so they went anyway. Not much is filmed in Texas as far as I can see, so head toward Morganza. If you can find the Cafe in Morganza where the young girls and the sheriff and rednecks we’re, you’re a better man than me, because the locals who knew the place said it got torn down a couple of years ago. In October 2010 they put up a plaque at the site of Melanchon’s Cafe to commemorate the making of the movie and the locals that were involved. Keep riding, it’s pretty easy to get a feel of 1969 Morganza.
Did anyone else think this kid was a 100% pud in the movie? Yeah, he’s a pud.
The rednecks in Morganza were real locals. Dennis told the crew to tell them that he, Jack and Peter had raped a girl outside of town before they started filming to get a real reaction of hate from them. One thing to remember, is other that a loose premise, Easy Rider wasn’t scripted. They made it up as they went, and most of the cast would tell you that Dennis Hopper was generally insane in those days. Dennis later said when they rode off from the Cafe scene that was the one time they were scared and wondered if they pushed it too far. They’d heard stories of long hairs getting whacked in Texas and Louisiana. You shouldn’t have the same problem, unless you get way out of line. Head south.
Dig:
Head south out of Morganza, Hit the 190 and then west till you hit Opelousas, then south. If you’re ready, you’ll have Jimi Hendrix Queued as you hit Franklin Louisiana. Remember the song? Thats right old-schoolers, if a six became a nine. Find the bridge, stop, and queue that puppy for proper listening.
I want to thank my Cajun Friend Johnny for the modern day pictures of Franklin. You sir, are the man. I owe you a round of beers Man.
Our Hero’s riding down the streets of FranklinFranklin LA Today. Looks about the same…Old Theater, then Ben Franklin Store from the Movie. Remember Ben Franklin?Old Theater and Ben Franklin Today. Do you see it?Downtown Franklin Then…Downtown Franklin Today….
One more Shot.
Old Courthouse, Franklin Louisiana Then… (notice the building being built behind the old courthouse)Old Courthouse is gone. This is the old building that was being built in 1969
Then head on into New Orleans. Go to where Mardi Gras is. Now its time for Madam Tinkertoy and Groovy Dinners. Its Mecca man! You’ve reached the Glory Hole. Party like a rockstar, do whatever you do, because tomorrow you’re going to get shot by a short redneck with a Goiter on his neck. I’m not trying to be a downer, I’m just sayin’. It could happen. You’re almost there.
The scenes in Mardis Gras we’re filmed a month after Mardis Gras had ended. The parade scenes they shot with friends and some stock footage. Watch the movie again and you’ll notice. They also shot these scenes first. You may have better luck with Mardi Gras then they did if you time it right.
While you’re in Nawlins, pull out your 80’s CD of Tony Basil singing “mickey”. C’mon, you know you have one. In 1969 she played a prostitute in Easy Rider. In the 80’s, she was a one hit wonder with fat cheerleaders. Hey Mickey!
Easy Rider Ended in Krotz Springs Louisiana.
Once you had your fill of New Orleans, Double back and head towards Krotz Springs Louisiana. You’ll notice the Levees on LA 105. Hit your odometer, and the final spot is almost exactly 3 miles up the road. That’s where this great movie ends, only you’ll survive. Now’s the time to bust out a cigar if you have one, because you made it to the end of the movie. Call a loved one and tell em you’re coming home. Queue the ballad of easy rider and head on out of town. You’re gonna retire in Florida Mister! If a man with a goiter shows, get the hell out of there.
This thread is over. Im going to end it all of a sudden, just like my favorite Movie, Easy Rider. Don’t blow it.
