Rides

A Run through Apache Country.

Having a gut full of this virus, lockdown and quite honestly peoples reaction to it, I did me some riding last weekend.

Man, its perfect riding weather this time of year. Good enough for a leather jacket in the morning some leathers to get over the mountains, and then long sleeves in the afternoon without sweating your ass off. Perfect. I loaded up the bike in the morning and headed east. My bike was purring and it just felt good to get out on the road.

Most of where I rode was through the Apache Indian reservation. Historically, the apaches weren’t your mud farmer, hunter gatherers of the indian nation. They’d keep the peace if it was warranted, but they fuck your day up if it wasn’t. I’ve been reading up on Cochise and Geronimo, and they demanded respect by any cultures measure. This part of the country was invaded by Spain, then Mexico, then the westward expansion. The Apaches were on the front lines of all of that. Part of this ride was that I wanted to get a sense of all that History.

Due to covid 19, much of the Tribe had all the side roads blocked off as I went through the reservation. They run things their own way, so I couldn’t get off and explore so I stayed on the state Highways.

Heading down through Fort Thomas, I found an interesting, almost old forgotten memorial. It was to a guy named Melvin Jones, who was born in Fort Thomas, and later went on to making the Lions club an international organization in 1917. When I was younger, the lions club was everywhere. Our family reunions were held for years on Fathers Day at a Lions Club Lodge in Utah (they still are). Membership has waned over the years, but clubs like the Lions were a woven into the community fabric all across America.

Anyway, I thought it was interesting. Out in the middle of nowhere.

I headed into Safford, and then up a new road into fort Grant. Lots of history up there as well. The old fort is situated on a prison now, and was the site of one of the largest massacres in the US in 1871.

The ride up through fort Grant and into Wilcox AZ was fairly killer. The roads were empty, and it was one of those roads where you just get lost in the moment; my music sounded good and my bike was purring. I was enjoying the hell out of it.

Just past Fort Grant I found this old Historic Store:

The Bonita store. She looks pretty well kept up.
Built in 1882 and I think was still going strong until 1942.

If you live in Arizona, it’s pretty much required to see Tombstone. At least, it should be. You may have seen it. The very end of the movie ends with Johnny Ringo getting shot by Doc Holliday. I’ve been to tombstone several times, but I’ve never found Johnny Ringos grave. With a little encouragement from Mike F who’s been a long time follower of this blog, I took the dirt road out to see it.

There’s some speculation on whether doc Holliday really killed Johnny Ringo. He was found propped up at this spot a day later, with one bullet missing in his gun, and a bullet wound in his temple. It was officially ruled a suicide, but several people have claimed to have killed him. I like the Holliday story myself, but it probably was by his own hand. Either way, Here’s the place.

I landed in a placed called Double Adobe. This part of Arizona, people are pretty friendly. They love their guns, and their Independence. Exactly what you’d expect from Arizona — Ranches and farms everywhere, and you can see Mexico from here. There are Trump flags and stickers everywhere. I felt right at home.

I woke up, broke down my tent and watched the sun come up. It was pretty cold, but the temp climbed fast as the sun rose. I headed east toward the border town of Douglas, and then on to New Mexico and then north west to home.

I jacked up my camera phone dropping it off my bike on my last ride. I took a DSLR camera with me to get some pics, and I took a bunch: Some bitchen old buildings and signs in Douglas, Some old Adobe homes in New Mexico, and the spot where Geronimo surrendered to the US in 1886, ending the US and Indian Wars. Yeah, good pics, but I somehow managed to fuck them up on that DSLR. I think rattling around in my saddlebag changed a setting, or I fat-fingered something when I took my first picture of the day. Everything came out white. Oh well. Next time.

On my way home, I found a playlist on my phone: The 100 best classic country songs of all time. My dad woulda loved this shit, and I gotta admit I enjoyed it on this ride. Hank Williams, Dolly Parton, some George Jones…. That song about “momma socking it to the Harper Valley PTA… ” It seemed to fit the country I was in. Kicked a foot up on the freeway pegs, stopped and took some bad pictures, and enjoyed the wind.

This one was a particular favorite: Loretta Lynn, talking about beating up another chick. Catfight! So Hawt…. Wait, is that wrong? 🙂

A killer ride. That was the last major road in Arizona, checked off my list. I keep thinking I’m done, I always seem to find some new side road I get curious about, so I’m sure I’ll end up going back.

It was a helluva good ride.

2 states, 2 days, 670 miles

A Run through Apache Country. Read More »

Scorpion Gulch Trading Post

I woke up way too early Saturday morning. Like 3 AM. I couldn’t get back to sleep, so I decided to go find a mountain and watch the sun come up over the valley. I thought I’d try south Mountain. I’ve heard there is a road up there, and I’ve never been there.

I idled out of the neighborhood so as not to wake everyone up (my bike is pretty loud) and headed west toward Phoenix. The roads were empty, and the air was nice and cool. A nice start to a Saturday.

5 more miles to the top
Made it just as the sun broke the superstition Mountains.
A helluva View up here.

I sat on top of south Mountain, drank coffee and had about 7 epiphanies. I forgot all of them, of course but I’m pretty sure they were epic. 🙂

On the way back down I checked out this place called Scorpion Gulch. Its right off the side of the road.

The thing that strikes me about Arizona, is they give things really bitchin names. Places like Bloody Basin, Two Guns, Horsetheif Basin and Bumble Bee. Theres towns called Tombstone, Happy Jack and even Santa  Claus.

In 1936, William Lunsford bought some frontage along the road heading up to South Mountain to build a curio shop and Trading post. There was an active gold mine on the mountain, and William staked his claim to be a part of that turns out.

He gave it a killer name. In true Arizona Style, he called it Scorpion Gulch. I think its my favorite AZ name so far. It sounds like a place you could throw child abusers into; I mean…. “Scorpion Gulch” ffs.

If he were still alive, I’d find him and buy him a beer.

I can’t find a lot of details about this place, but it was still operating in 1966 when Lunsford was 75. In the 1970s, it became a bar and there’s a few stories of people who frequented it.

Scorpion Gulch Back in the day.

A cool little morning outing, and a great ride. Arizona has a lot of cool little places.

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Route 66 overnighter

It’s warming up here, and the weather is fairly killer for riding.    I had a chance to get the hell out of dodge last weekend for a couple of days and I took it.    I had a killer month at work, and it just seemed right to make some miles somewhere.   I was figuring north, back to my favorite road — Route 66.   I haven’t ridden the southern part of the Colorado River in Arizona, so I wanted to see that too.

Interstate 17 is ass on any sort of holiday weekend.    Arbor day, ground hog day, let alone Easter weekend.   It was slow going, but I finally made it off the interstate and west toward the good stuff.

Historic 89 A
A good sign. I’m a sucker for a good historic road

Jerome Arizona. This is the good stuff, a killer little historic Arizona mining town on the side of a hill. If you haven’t been here, it’s well worth checking out.

Partridge Creek Bridge
The Partridge Creek Bridge was officially route 66 from the 20s to 1965. It’s a unique bridge that has a fully mature tree growing out of it. I first saw it in a biker mag in 1988, and shortly thereafter set out to see if we could figure out where it was. My wife and I would take weekend road trips to try and find it every weekend we could, and fell in love with route 66 along the way. This was before the internet and being able to look things up online. After 3 years we finally found it. It’s still one of my favorite spots on the mother road.

 

Partridge Creek Bridge Arizona
Partridge creek — Heading West.

I stayed the night in the Seligman KOA, roamed around and took some pictures of the local neon signs.

The Suapai Motel in Seligman AZ

 

Woke up in the morning and headed to downtown seligman.   I got molested by a bus full of Chinese Tourists where I had to educate them on the do’s and don’ts of touching an American mans bike, and headed down route 66 toward Kingman   It was a pretty beautiful day to ride, and the weather was effing perfect.

Oatman Road
The East side of Oatman road. this was route 66 up until 1953.

Oatman Arizona Selfies
Taking selfies like all the other Jackasses in Oatman.

Had me a tense moment eating lunch outside of Oatman and almost got into a fight with some prick.   He backed out and walked away.    It took me about 2 hours to calm down as I headed down the Colorado river and home.

A great weekend methinks!

 

 

 

 

Route 66 overnighter Read More »

The Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah:

#10:  Old Highway 91 from St George to Mesquite Nevada:

This was just outside my back door for 25 years, and I rode it a lot.   I’m not sure I ever got sick of it.    Before they put in the virgin River gorge and completed 1-15 at a million dollars a mile back in 1972, this was how you got to Vegas.   Be sure to ride under the freeway at Littlefield to get the full effect.

Highway 91 — The Freeway, before Interstates were cool.

#9: Highway 191 from Duchesne to Moab:

Leaving Duchesne you’ll ride up to 9,000 feet and down into some pretty historic parts of the Mining towns of Utah.   Some great bars, history and open roads.    Keep going and you’ll end up in Moab and probably find something fun to do.   Everybody loves Moab.

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - Highway 191 Duchesne to Moab
Duchesne to Moab: Mountain roads, History and the red rocks of Moab. 

 

#8:  Highway 18 from St George to Caliente Nevada

Another road I’ve ridden a lot, but it never got old.   Hay fields and hills that end up in the Canyon Town of Caliente Nevada.   Remember to ride through Modena.   There’s a few cool old surprises there…

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - Highway 18
Highway 18 – Bluff Street in St George to Caliente Nevada

 

#7:   Utah Highway 89

I rode highway 89 mostly because I hated riding the Interstate.   Its a great road that’ll take a few hours longer than 1-15, but much more interesting.    You’ll ride through national forests, High mountains and High Desert.    The home of Butch Cassidy, The big Rock Candy mountain and a lot of other cool places.

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - Highway 89
Get off the interstate.

#6: Highway 189 through Provo Canyon:

I remember getting back from one the Easy Rider tours that went half way across the country and coming home from the Airport.   After all those states and terrain, I still didn’t see anything as beautiful as Provo Canyon.    There’s at least 10 or 11 waterfalls through there if you’re paying attention, including Bridal Veil Falls.    Its a gorgeous ride, and Heber City Has some of the best people you’d ever want to meet.

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - Highway 189 Provo Canyon
Highway 189 from Provo to Heber.

#5:  Highway 14 – Cedar Mountain through Duck Creek village.  

A great 2 lane ride over Cedar mountain and through the pines.   Missus Zip and I had our Honeymoon in Duck Creek Village.   It’s a great ride.  A nice side road at the top is over to Panguitch Lake, Or Even to the 10,000 foot top to Brian Head.    Hard to beat 🙂

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - Highway 14
Over the top of Cedar Mountain is a gorgeous ride.

#4:  Heber to Tabiona to Heber again:

You’ll go past Strawberry Reservoir and into Highway 35 and the mountains of Tabiona.    Stop in Hannah and get a bite to eat, and kick a foot up on your freeway pegs and enjoy the scenery of really small town Utah.    This is a great ride.

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - Heber to Tabiona to Heber
Heber to Tabiona to Heber Again.  A great ride.  

 

#3:  Highway 9 through Zion National Park:

Zion is one of a kind, and a must see.   It’s a twisty road through some of the most beautiful scenery you’ll find on the planet.   Take 89 south through Kanab and Fredonia on the way home, over the edge of the Kaibab  Plateau and through Colorado City.

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - Zion National Park

 

#2:   The Alpine Loop.

Head up Provo Canyon and turn off at Sundance Ski Resort.     This road is kinda funky — its a narrow 2 lane (almost 1 lane) that takes you over the top of the mountain.   You’ll have to be careful around the corners because there’s a lot of blind spots, but its drop dead beautiful and right in the middle of dense forest.

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - The Alpine Loop
The Alpine Loop. Stop and hike Timpanogos Caves on the other side while you’re at it…

 

#1:   Utah Highway 12.

My favorite road in Utah.    You’ll go through Bryce Canyon, Tropic and Cannonville and Escalante.   The Town of Boulder is beautiful (great fishing there) and over the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument.    You’ll end up in Torrey after a great ride with a lot of terrain changes.    The road into boulder valley is awesome.    The whole road is good.  For fun, take the side road into Antimony.

Top 10 Motorcycle Roads in Utah - Highway 12 is the best
The Best Road in the state of Utah.

 

 

 

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Run to Bisbee

With the move, and work I haven’t been able to hit up some of the places I wanted to ride.   I’ve been needing an overnight trip somewhere to just explore, do whatever I want and enjoy the road and whatever that brings.

It’s fun to ride with friends, but sometimes I just want to get out on my own and not have to listen to someone bitch about where we’re going, or not waking up on time because they need their beauty sleep or whatever.    Riding by yourself you can do whatever YOU want to do.    If I want to wake up at 3 AM and ride to Texas because I have some crazy idea I can find a BBQ Place I’ve always wanted to try, or sleep in and come home I can.  I can push myself to make miles or ride slow and check out every little small town along the way.   It’s all about the exploration and enjoying  the moment.

At work I have to follow someone elses plans and bust ass to make sure they’re being implemented.   On the road, its Fuck all.   I’ll do what I want to do, and its a nice change up.   It’s fuel for the fire, and it’ll last for a long time.

That is exactly what I love about riding.

I left Saturday morning about 9.   The air was a bit cool and the riding was perfect T-shirt weather.   Perks of living in Arizona in march.   There was a renaissance festival 30 miles outside of town that backed up traffic for 15 miles and I tried to avoid it by taking side roads and getting breakfast, but it was clear I wasn’t going to be able to.   Just bite the bullet and get through it.    Once I got past it the road opened up and it was clear it was going to be a pretty damn good day.

Trying to find a side road, getting the hell out of dodge.

Just past the town of Superior there’s an old tunnel from the 50’s you go through that winds up the canyon.    I’ve noticed the old road that wound below it, and spotted the older tunnel on a past trip this way.   Curiosity killed this cat.    I’m a sucker for an old bypassed road.

 

Old 1920’s to 1950’s section of US60, winding around the terrain.

 

The Claypool Tunnel

I had a minute so I filmed it.   If you’re ever over this way, its a neat old section of road.

Claypool Tunnel, back in the day

 

It was starting to get hot, so I headed east on the 60 again toward Globe.   It’s a great stretch of road to ride.

Made me giggle.  Welcome to Miami Arizona.

I think the thing I love most about Arizona is the Sonoran Desert.   It covers about a third of Arizona but its the most unique desert in the southwest IMO.   Basically, if you see a Saguaro Cactus, you’re in the Sonoran Desert.   It’s beautiful terrain, and makes for a great ride.    I was heading east, and the desert starts looking more and more like New Mexico, which is sorta ass.    Maybe I don’t know as much about New Mexico as I think I should, but its the neighboring state and I’m sure I’ll have time to hit those roads once I get sick of riding AZ.

US 191, East of Fort Grant

I wound south down through the Apache Indian reservation and westward into Benson.  I crashed for the night at the KOA.    The place was empty for tent sites, which sort of surprised me since this is the time of year to camp.   I gotta think no one camps in Southern Arizona in July.   Maybe no one just wants to go to Benson, who knows.     The old Korean Lady owner was a sweetheart and gave me an upgraded spot with power so I could charge up my phone.    I called Missus Zip and hit the sack.

Ya gotta love a good  road morning…

Arizona Moon, before sunrise.

Woke up early and enjoyed the morning.    There’s something about waking up in a new place.    After a day of riding your senses come back in tune:  you hear the birds, the wind, hell… everything else.    I fucking love road mornings.    I loaded up the bike and headed down the trail toward Tombstone.

Tombstone Arizona

I’ve been to Tombstone before.   There’s a lot I want to see here, but I’d like to get my family down here if I can talk them into it and experience some things with them.   I had breakfast and headed toward Bisbee, which my brother Skeezix has talked about for a few years.

Riding into Bisbee, I was sorta blown away.    I’m not sure I’ve ever seen another town like it before.    It’s like a combination of Park City, and Caliente Nevada:   A re-purposed old town nestled in the middle of a canyon, with a lot of hipsters and mining history.    I rode through it, put my gopro on the windshield of my bike and figured I’d show you how cool the main street of Bisbee is.   Turns out, Harley-Davidsons shake a lot so even at 20 MPH my goPro footage was like watching the Blair Witch Project.   I won’t subject you to it 🙂

I went to take a tour of the Queen Mine, but the next tour was an hour away and like Tombstone, I figured we’d plan a family trip and come down here again.

I pointed the bike toward Sierra Vista and then toward home.   Great ride, and I got to see a lot of the different terrain that Arizona has to offer.

Turns out, Life is pretty goddamn good.  The nice thing about scouting the perimeter you always come back with more questions than answers.    I think I need to spend an entire day or two in Tucson, there’s a lot of things I want to see there.

Great ride, one for the books.

 

 

 

2 Days, 500 Miles, 1 State.

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Gillespie Dam Bridge – Gila Bend Arizona

The weather down here just inspires riding, especially in the winter.   It’s been over 70 degrees the last 2 weekends, and after finally having everything somewhat settled I had a chance to point the bike toward a new road.   I could hardly wait.

Scouting the perimeter:  Luckily, my wife knows I need to do it, even though she gives me a hard time about the saying.    Its maybe the biggest reason I moved to Arizona, as there is a whole lot of perimeter to scout.

I headed west through Phoenix and then a little south, toward Arlington Arizona.   I had somewhat of a destination in mind.

The Gillespie Dam – Built for flood control and irrigation by a local rancher in 1920 to tame the Gila River

Cars crossing the river on the skirt of the dam – 1920s

 

In the early days, cars used to have to cross the river at the base of the dam, which could be impossible during heavy runoff or floods.   

 

In 1927, they finally built a bridge with the advent of the US HIghway commission. It was the longest steel structure in Arizona at the time.   The road later became US Highway 80 and connected Savannah Georgia to San Diego California. 

 

In 1993, with unusually heavy rainfall the Gillespie dam failed.    It was never rebuilt, and the bridge was unaffected.

I found the fucker.   I’m a sucker for an old Rusty Bridge.

The Gillespie Dam Bridge.

 

She’s a beautiful old Gal. Fun to ride.

 

The Breached Gillespie Dam, unchanged since 1993. The Gila River had it’s way, as rivers usually do.

 

Remnants of old Highway 80 in Arizona.

The ride through old Highway 80 was a really nice ride.   Not much traffic as it goes into Gila Bend.    I was just scouting the perimeter, so I’m pretty sure I’ll be back as I noticed a lot of side roads I’d missed, old towns I’d bypassed and historic markers I wasn’t sure I’d have time to stop and read.   It’s why you scout the perimeter, or at least why I do:   when you go back, there’s always something new to see, learn and wonder about.

I figure it’s winter down here, so Ill see what I can in the southern end of the state while it’s still cool enough to see it.   Come summer, I’m going to want to head north toward route 66 and flagstaff where I don’t get heat stroke.

The ride through the Sonoran desert National Monument was beautiful.    I need more days.   I wasn’t ready to go home.

God, I love Arizona.

1 day, 1 state, 180 miles.

 

 

 

 

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Echo Utah, the Kozy Cafe and Missus Zips Family Reunion.

Been riding the bike daily since I got home.    Doing some customer service calls on it, and finding it to be a nice ice breaker.   If you ride…. no matter what you ride…. People  like to talk about it.   It solves some problems.    I think I’m onto something.

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The Road King, down by Utah Lake in Vineyard Utah.

Last Friday, It was my wifes family annual reunion.    I’ve been doing it for almost 23 or 24 years.   I’ve lost count.       She headed up that night, and my plan was to head up the next day on the bike.     I needed a night off, and my wife has always been cool enough to not give me any crap about that sorta stuff.      I’m fairly positive I’m pretty lucky that way.

I woke up the next morning and read my emails.     Someone had hit me up from this here blog and told me that the Kozy Cafe Was Open over in Echo.     I’d said something about this place before.        The thought of breakfast there got me fairly inspired, so I got my act together and pointed the bike that way.     It’s not that far away, and that place is old and has character.      Nice bonus to the day.

Headed through Heber City northbound.    Up through Parleys Summit.

Heber is a funny place.    I’m originally from Orem, which is probably considered Northern Utah.    When I was 16, I wasn’t so good a kid  (I thought I was).    A lot of factors (including that one) combined to me being moved by my parents, 6 months before I got my drivers License to southern Utah, 5 hours south.

I chose to live in Wasatch County.    Maybe thats why I like it.    I moved here as an adult, and to me there’s just a good feeling here. Anyway, whatever.

2013-06-15 09.51.26
Apparently I take a lot of pictures of my bike. There will be more. I’m not sure what else to take a picture of.   This is at the Top of Parley’s Summit, trying to find an old road that I couldn’t get to.

Headed up through Parleys Canyon, and then through East Canyon, toward Henifer and Echo.      I was getting hungry, and it was getting late.    I can’t keep this up on beef Jerky.      Up through East Canyon.

 

2013-06-15 10.20.04
Up in the Quaking Aspens of Easy Canyon.

Utah is killer.   At least, I think so.   A week or so ago I’d ridden half way across America, and not on a road like this.

2013-06-15 10.33.27
Hrm, the donner Party came this way. I’m hungry, but not that hungry. Ten more miles and I can eat at that reopened cafe in Echo

The best thing about a road king is you can take the windshield off if you want to.   I pulled into Echo.

Kozy Cafe Echo Utah
Reminds me of Roys, in Amboy

Worlds Fastest Indian
From the 2005 Movie World’s Fastest Indian.   Hollywood does a little photoshoppin, it seems.     

Echo is really small.    Like, really small.  It had an important part in the history of this area — an old railroad town at the junction of a few canyons that joined evanston Wyoming to Salt Lake City back in the day.   It’s  had a long history, but I didn’t know any of it.    When the interstate came in, the town dried up.    It reminds me of route 66.   There’s not many places up here like that.    They’re just all gone.

2013-06-15 11.00.46
Kozy Cafe. It’s like stepping back into time. Its clean, not updated since the 70s, and is pretty cool.

The waitress was young and  had a natural smile on her face.   She had that look about her that this was either her first job, or she was in the family.   It was noon by now, so I had me a Jalapeno Burger and the food was quite good for a joint that you can’t see from the freeway.   In fact, it was really good.   Signs of a place that’s trying to build or keep your business.    I hope they make it.   Either way, I ate here and gave em a buck, and I hope to be back.    Had a beer, gave her a good tip and went out and explored a bit of Echo.

2013-06-15 11.19.30
Love that old neon sign. They don’t make em like this anymore.

The Kozy Cafe and Motel in Echo Utah
Back in the day they advertised air conditioned rooms. Not much movement around the old Motel Now.

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Can’t get gas here now, Frank I bet, was in a good spot when he opened this place.   I bet cars were piling up.   Radiator belts  and gas at 36 cents a gallon.   Money in your pocket.

The Echo Cafe Echo Utah
The Echo Cafe in Echo Utah. A stones throw from the Kozy.

Main Street in Echo Utah.
Main Street in Echo Utah.

Not many places have this much 1950’s style.    I wanted to know more, and drink in a little local history.   People had lived here, worked here and got paychecks from here for generations.   It was a big part of somebody’s life, and I felt the need to find out more.

My inlaws say they used to come here back in the 60’s.   The lake was nearby, and they ate, drank and danced in their younger years.

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Turns out, Echo had a lot to do with settling this region.

Main Street in Echo Utah.
There’s quite a few plaques in Echo. If you stop, you could learn a thing

I headed east down the Echo Main Drag, looking for clues.   The family Reunion I felt was fine, I was 30 minutes away.    Curiosity got this cat, and by this point I had to know.

2013-06-15 11.42.33
Transcontinental Railroad. Boom Town. I found an old church.

They had an an old museum downstairs.    The lights didn’t work, and I had to squint for most of it.   Signs of a place that is struggling to pay for itself.     This is a great old town so far, and needs to be preserved. There is some history here.      Some old man with an old dog was guardian of this place, and he sat below the pulpit.     I nodded, and headed into the museum part, downstairs.

Lots of homer stuff:, just like you’d expect.   Perfect:  When Echo took 2nd place in the state championship in basketball in 1942,   People who died in WWII that lived in Echo, and History of the transcontinental railroad that brought life to this area.       This one stuck out to me:

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This was my favorite. Click on this to enlarge. An advertisement, for another day. I might have applied.  Click to Enlarge.

I hung out a little more, put 20 dollars in the kitty and headed out of town.    Echo, you told me who you are.   Please, keep it up.    I will for sure be back.

Headed towards Morgan Utah, and into the family Reunion.    At the Lions Lodge, where Mrs Zips Grandpa was a member for a lot of years.    We had fun for the next 2 days.

If you lived in Echo, I’d love to hear your stories, whatever they are.   Post em if you got em.

2 days, 151 Miles.


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Two Weeks of Catch Up – Zip Family Reunion.

Its summer up here now.   Hit 100 degrees today, or damn close.       It’s so much different than living in the desert the last 30 years.    When its warm, everyone has an activity, or a ride, and you make hay while the sun shines.    Since getting home, I’ve had a ton of fun, but this weekend I’m going to do absolutely nothing.   Ahhhh, how ’bout a little nothing?

Flashback to June 1st.

Woke up that morning and got my shit together and met big D in the lobby of the Hotel.    We were flying out together, and it was nice to see a familiar face for one last time.    We hit the shuttle, and said our goodbyes in the half hour ride to the Airport.

Flew Home.

My plan was to stay at my older brothers house, and cook some ribs for a family get together the next day.    Skeezix had just bought a new smoker, and we were going to dial that bad boy in.    He bought 12 racks of ribs, and we’d smoke em on both of our smokers, have a few single malts and maybe a good cigar, and shoot the shit about the ride, life and whatever else comes to mind.

After my wife refused that plan in a way that no man could deny, I woke up the next morning in my own bed headed to Draper to meet up with my brother.

  Pulled into my brothers house and started prepping for the biggest BBQ I’d ever done.   Planned on 50 people, and I was in charge of the spare ribs.     Apple wood smoked for 6 hours, and my homemade BBQ sauce recipe.

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My Bro and I, making the BBQ sauce. After eating real texas BBQ, I’ll never sauce a rib again. Its on the side if you want it.

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We ended up smoking 9 racks, and they turned out good. BBQ is like golfing. You can always think you coulda played that one hole better.

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The oldest granddaughter (and my favorite niece), and my 101 year old Grandma.     She’ll make 102 Easy.

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1967 Lincoln Continental that was owned by my Dad.

Our oldest brother showed up in the Lincoln.     My dad bought this car in 1986.     I helped him strip it down, and build it back up.    Suicide doors, power steering, cruise control, monster engine.    Classic Detroit Sled.  My Oldest brother bought it later down the line, and finished it off.       He did a killer job.   The old man would have been proud.

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Joking with my brother. He’s a good soul.

The plan was… (and I missed the memo), was that this day was our Fathers Birthday.     We were all to bring something that reminded us of dad.

I will say this:  Vern Dunn was a solid and good man.    There are not many who are born into the world who had the charisma, the compassion and the sheer ability to kick ass as my dad did, all in the right combinations.   Just a good man.    We’re all proud to spring from the guy.      We all took our turn and told a story about our father.

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Pat (Skeezix, as named by my dad), telling a story about our pop.

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The beat goes on.   My kids never knew him. Missus Zip, the kids and I listened In.    Values, they happen from the ground up.     Glad to see them sticking.

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We all took our turn, and told our stories. A good day.

I started to blog to remember the trips I’ve made a bike over the years.     I look back on it, and I read them, as a record of things I want to remember in life.    This is one of those days.     Pretty cool.   When you strip it all down to nothing, family means everything.

 

Old song…

 

94 miles,  1 day.


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Two Weeks of Catch Up – Zip Family Reunion. Read More »

Day 13 – Easy Rider Movie Location Tour – New Orleans Louisiana.

I woke up and felt like George  Hanson in a jail cell.     When I looked in the mirror, I saw Keith Richards was staring at me.     It’d been a  long trip.      Burbon Street is an interesting place.

I was to meet Graham in the lobby,  but I was 10 minutes late.   The plan was to go over to St. Louis Cemetery and see some scenes from the movie.   Graham must have seen Keith Richards in the mirror too, he didn’t show so I figured i’d spy it out myself.    I’m always up for coming back.

They filmed the acid trip scenes here.    In fact, this was the first parts of the movie that they filmed, in 16mm film, instead of 35mm.    If you watch the movie, you can tell the quality isn’t as good.     They came down with 30 grand, no plan and Dennis Hoppers ego and the movie nearly ended before it began.

They even missed Mardi Gras by a month.    If you notice in the movie, you don’t see the main Actors in the parade.    They rounded up as many people as they could, and tried to re-create it.

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St Louis Cemetery #1 was where they dropped the Acid the Hippy Gave them. They Quartered it.   You’re running out of time.

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Same Spot, 2013.   I’m hip about time.

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Acid in the 60’s musta been like the Tequila of the 2000’s. Huh, who’d have thought.

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St Louis Cemetery #1, in 2013

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There’s a story here.

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Same spot, 2013

Peter Fonda’s mother committed suicide when he was 10 years old.    He didn’t know the full story or the reasons why for years.    Dennis had convinced Peter to get up on that statue and talk to his mother in this scene.   He didn’t want to do it.   It was just way too personal, and and to this day he is both embarrassed and proud of that scene in Easy Rider.     He laid it right out there.

When you watch the movie again, you can hear Peter say “shut up!  Shut up!”.     Dennis was a madman on the set back in those days, they’d just started filming and he’d started an argument while Peter was up there, laying his guts out on camera.    He was trying to get through this, and he intermittently kept telling Dennis to shut the hell up.     Tells you a lot about Peter Fonda, and his commitment to this film.

When they finished making the movie, they worked on getting a soundtrack  for it.     In Krotz springs, I told the story about how they’d gotten Bob Dylan to do a song for the film, and his reluctance to do it.     Peter told Bob about the filming of this scene, and his own reluctance to say what he’d  said.      That point, was what finally convinced Bob Dylan to put a song on this film, after a few hours of debate.    He scribbled down the words to “the Ballad of Easy Rider” on a piece of paper, and gave it to Peter.     He told them to have Roger McGuinn of the Byrds put music to it.     It was the final song of the movie.    That was in 1969.

The Easy Rider graveyard/Acid trip isn’t my favorite part of this film, but I can appreciate the significance of it.   It holds a lot of weight to the movie, and it’s a big part of what makes it such a classic period piece of film.    It happened.

I didn’t want to get another cab.   It was early, and figured I’d walk the few miles back to the hotel.    I was in Nawlins, and I wanted to get a better feel for the city.

Hey, on a lighter note:    This was Peter Fonda’s Escort  in the movie of Easy Rider:  Toni Basil.    She was Hawt.

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Toni Basil Easy Rider

Toni Basil in 1981.    Still fine, and holding it together.    You know you like this song.   I’m not gonna lie, I do.

I walked back to the Hotel.

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New Orleans is old. Lots of history here methinks.

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New Orleans, Louisiana

We were to meet at 3 so we could ride the bikes into EagleRider and turn em in.    I got some lunch, took a nap, and took in more of the day.    We all met in the parking garage of the Hampton Inn French Quarter, told some stories from the night before, and rolled out in the rain for the final time.    It was cool, but knowing it was over pretty much sucked.

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EagleRider, New Orleans. Turning the bikes in.

 

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3181 miles  minus the 11 I had when I pulled her out of Los Angeles is 3170 miles in 2 good weeks.

We took a trolley car back to the Hotel, after we’d turned the bikes in.   Brandon had headed out that morning with Captain America in tow, on to another tour.    Steve originally had had to leave us, but in the end he was able to stay and turned us onto a good restaurant in the french quarter.    After a couple of hours, we walked down the french quarter, to the Court of Two Sisters.     This was a really nice place.

Tim made a pretty damn funny comment about the Blues Brothers.

I stared across the table at the people I’d ridden with for the last two weeks.    I really liked these people.   I’ll be honest, I’m a prick.    I don’t like many.   But Ana, Steve, John, Peter, Linda, Pete, Graham, Phil, Helio, Howard, June, Martine, Big D, Timmy, Bruno, Shawn, Bob, Brandon.    You all made this ride fun.     It was nice to share what I knew, and even better to learn what you knew.

We paid the bill, worked our way out, and said our goodbyes.

 

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Corner of Bourbon and Toulouse. Madame Tinkertoys house of Blue LIghts, New Orleans Louisiana. Where George Hanson Never Went, we did.   Easy Rider Inaugural Tour 2013.

We all went our separate ways.    Tim and I walked Bourbon Street, had a few beers and shot the bull.    We rounded back to the bar near the hotel and talked a bit.     Pete & Linda, and Paul and Martine showed up for a few.

Then it was over.    I went back to the Hotel.    I’d fly out in the morning.

I want to ride with these people again.

Day 13 – Easy Rider Movie Location Tour – New Orleans Louisiana. Read More »

Day 12: Easy Rider Movie Location Tour – Lake Charles LA to New Orleans LA

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The Last Morning Hotel Ritual. Lake Charles Louisiana

We woke up, had a little of that continental breakfast and  got ready to head out.   Today was different, and I’ll be honest it had a bit of weight to it for me.    It’d be our last day riding.

Tonight, we’d be in New Orleans.    The 2 places on the Easy Rider Route that I’d never seen we’d see today, but I’ve gone over them a million times in my head.    I was excited to see those places, but I knew I was going to miss these people I’d spent the last 2 weeks riding with.   I felt pretty determined to enjoy the day, like I’d enjoyed the last 12.    I did.

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Paul and Martine on the Captain this morning.     Paul is as cool as a cucumber.   That Martine?   I think she’s trouble.    She’s just got that look in her eye.    Yep.   Trouble.

We loaded up, and headed out.

Louisiana has a completely different feel than Texas.    After 3 days in the Lone Star State, I was still getting a bit adjusted mentally to this place.    I really liked Texas.   I wanted to like Louisiana.     This is the deep south, a little Lynard Skynard was in order for this adjustment I felt.  Maybe a little more southernish rock would do the trick.      It certainly didn’t hurt.

The road ahead was funny.   We got into a funeral procession.   Cars were randomly pulled off to the side of the road, and the speeds were erratic.     When you take up 1/4 mile of road, you don’t always know whats going on head.     Some old boy in a 1979 Toyota Courrier veered into our lane when we tried to pass.     I wasn’t sure if it was because we were tourists, or because Paul and Martine had a yankee flag on their bike.       It was time to get my shit together.     I’m not one to let my imagination get away with me.

About an hour later, we pulled into Eunice Louisiana and got fuel.

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Eunice Louisiana. Big D wanted another turn at the Captain

We fueled up and watered up.    The weather for the first time this trip was fairly ominous.      It was looking like rain, but 60 miles in we still hadn’t hit it.   Maybe we’d luck out.    At this point, I didn’t really care.    The weather this whole trip had been perfect.      If it rained, it rained.    There were things to see, and places to go.

I still couldn’t quite shake this “last day” thing.     Krotz Springs (the final shots of the movie) were in 40 miles.    I’d maybe tell the last of what I knew about Easy rider there.     Graham and I both talked about it when were getting gas.

Big D was dying for another turn at riding Captain America.      He spent the next 40 miles into Krotz Springs, being as obnoxiously happy riding as anyone I’ve ever seen.   I couldn’t help but openly smile about it.      He revved it up at intersections, cracked it wide open and was just thrilled to be there.     It was pretty awesome.   John had his helmet cam on and tried to catch him on the long runs.   Big D was pulling away at 100 mph.  Big D is awesome.

We hit Krotz springs.     Missed the turnoff, and that was cool.    I wanted to cross that bridge anyway.     We looped back, and up the couple of miles, north of Krotz Springs.     This is where Easy Rider ended.

We were there.    In that exact place.  It hasn’t changed much since 1969.

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The question: “Want me to blow your brains out?”

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The Answer.

There are a lot of ghosts here.   I tried to explain a few  of them:

I remember Graham in death Valley, 2 weeks earlier.    Seeing Captain America round those hills and corners with us in tow, and feeling a sense of pride that we were doing the inaugural tour.    I gotta think that Captain America hadn’t been here, on the full ride since 1969.     I knew this day was coming.    It was in Death Valley that I figured I wanted to ride Captain America out of Krotz Springs.     The movie ended here, but the tour wasn’t ending for us.   I just wanted to ride that bike out, where Captain America Didn’t.   I got that chance.

Easy Rider - Krotz Spring Louisiana - MrZip66
You don’t get many, but for me this was a perfect moment.

 

We doubled back through Krotz Springs, along the levee road that contained the Atchafalaya river.     The road became a gravel road, and we slowed right down.     The captain America bike has a helluva long rake.    I had a few times where the front wheel kept one track, and the back tire kept another.    A little squirrely, for a bike I’d spent all of 10 minutes on.    At one point I was going to be the guy that took her down, but she held steady.      Steve was nervous for taking us on this road.     I was just happy to be there to be honest.    I knew noone was going to take this bike on this road again for EagleRider,  so it was all good.

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Another good reason big D was MVP of this ride. I’m sure he ate some gravel.

After about 3 or 4 miles, We finally hit some pavement.

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And headed a bit east on Interstate 10.

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and hit up a car wash in Breaux Bridge Louisiana.

It started raining with the sun out.    The captain doesn’t have front fender, and without it, all that water goes right up into your face.    Like, right into your glasses.     I could barely care.    I was on the Captain on a Louisiana backroad.      Try and wipe that smile off my face….What else would I rather be doing?

We rolled into St Martinville, and ate at a cool little restaurant in an old house.   I had frog legs and Alligator, for the first time.     We talked and Laughed.    This was to be a good day.

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St Johns Restaurant.

 

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The ladies, St Martinville Louisiana.

I must have coasted the Captain in on fumes.    She wouldn’t start.   Brandon had my back.    He put a gallon of gas into her, and we headed out.    The rain had stopped by now.

A little AC/DC fueled the way.

There was a dinner for us in New Orleans, and we had a deadline.

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Downtown Franklin Louisiana

My only regret of the entire trip is that we didn’t get to explore Franklin more.    I had things to show there, but we were rushed to get to the hotel for the farewell dinner.      I wanted to see more of it, and my thought was I’d ride back to it the next day and take some pictures.    I never did that.

John rode the Captain out of Franklin.     He got some great footage of it.

What it looked like in 1969.     This footage was from Coyote New Mexico, to Franklin Louisiana.

107 miles to New Orleans.    Took in the scenery, twisted the throttle and tried to  take in as much as I could.    Listened to a little Zeppelin along the way.    It hit the spot.

Dr Phil was on the captain, it rained a little, then stopped.    We rounded into our Hotel at New Orleans.

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Graham: here’s to the first of the day Gentlemen….

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We all took a turn. Nic Nic….

 

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Fut Fut Fut….

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Indians!

We’d seen a lot this day.   It was almost 7 PM, and we had a half an hour to get cleaned up, and be in the lobby for the limo to go and eat.    We all rallied, and made it on time.

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Mulates, some Cajun Music, and some Cajun Cooking.

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Tim dancing with another man. Tim is not gay, not that there is anything wrong with being gay.

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Singing Danny Boy with the neighboring table

I had a blast.    The band even sang me happy Birthday, along with everyone else.    Some Cajun music and food, then we retired to the back of the restaurant where it was a little more quiet.  Is this the way to Amarillo?

 

The last day of Riding on the Easy Rider Inaugural Tour.    Best 2 weeks ever.     Big D got MVP (well deserved), and we all got patches.

 

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EagleRider Inaugural Easy Rider Movie Tour May 2013

We left Mulates, and walked down to Burbon Street.    Graham and I had some fun, and saw the sights.

I couldn’t believe it was almost over.

 

Day 12 – Easy Rider Movie Locations Tour – 299 Miles

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Day 12: Easy Rider Movie Location Tour – Lake Charles LA to New Orleans LA Read More »